Process and apparatus for forming the heel seat of a shoe



Feb. 13, 1934. A, BRAUER ET AL 1,9475245 PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING THE HEEL SEAT OF A SHOE Filed Dec. 15, 1930 V 2 Sheets-Sheet l 13, 1934. A j BRAU ET AL PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING THE HEEL SEAT OF A SHOE Filed Dec. 15, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 l\ 6% WW WWW Patented Feb! 13, 1934;.'-.

PATENT oFFIcE- 3 I raoosssam) APPARATUSYFOR FORMING I V THE HEEL SEAT OFA SHOE Art-hur LBrauer and Frederick P. Wagner,

St. Louis, Mo.

Application December 15, 1930 Y Serial No. 502,343

20 Claims. (01. 12-315) This invention relates tothe art of making shoes, and more particularly to method and means for preparing the heel seat, of the shoe. This invention isparticularly applicable to ladies 5 shoes employing high heels, although many of the features of this invention are applicable to footwear generally. In the description which follows the. term shoe will be employed tocover'and comprehend a boot as well as a shoe. I

In the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly ladies shoes employing wood heels, :ithas been the practice toconcave'the seat of the heel in order that the margin of the heel where it engages the upper atthe heel seat may form'a close joint having the desired attractive appearance. This upper at the heel'seat'is lasted over counter and the insole, where employed, and over-lying the heel seat is an extension of the outsole. Itis the practice to marginally recess the sole extension at the heel seat, although the line of stitches attaching the sole to the upper extends at least to the breast of the heel when positioned on the shoe. Since the seat of the heel itself is concave, as described above,;it has also been the practice to chamfer the'rear extension of the sole so as to giveit a somewhat convex formation in order to conform to the concave seat of the heel, to a degreeat least. f

It is desirable that there be shoulders formed at the heel breast, even where a wooden fLouis heel having aaforwardexten'sion is employed;

Accordingly, it is the practice, afterthe formation of the'heel seat-by marginally recessing and chamfering, toposition the heel onthe shoe, to

7 whereby whenthe sole is finally positioned 'on the shoe, the soleedges will form I in effect a continuation of the heel.

upper with thesole appliedrhave heretofore usually, beenperformed 1 by "hand, particularly where the marginallyreduced sole portion at the ,heel has been tacked in place before such chamfering or vconvexii'rg,of this extension; It is desir-.

able and practically fess'ential for the production of a well-made and artistic shoe,-that this sole extension at the heel seat be not'left loose, for

"* otherwise a proper fit cannot be secured; furtherat the ends of the marginalrecess terminating These operations on the heel-sat of thelasted' alike, this is not true of the heel seat on the lasted and soled upper. Accordingly, in practice a shoe heel seat is, after marking ofjthe breast line thereon, trimmed and convexed so that it will conform to a heel for that shoe, and this heel is placed on the rack alongside of the shoe for sub sequent attachment. It will be seenthatthis is not only an expensive operation, since it must be. performed by hand, but unless performed skillfully and by skillful operators, the desired artistic appearance is not secured.

In application Serial No; 372,845, filed June 22, 1929,-'there is described means whereby the heel end of the sole is marginally reduced, so as to I not only conform to an extent to the concavity of the heel, but also to provide shoulders at the breast line against which the breast of the heel may abut. Unless, however, the cutting mecha nism for marginally reducing the heel end of the sole is of a form to chamfer the edges of the ex,- tension, it is necessary to resort to chamfering, unless the cutting mechanism is of such a con-f struction as to perform such chamfering, or un-' less the heel seat is formed with a depression where the heel'is firmly clamped and cemented 9-03 to theshoe; I One of the objects of this invention, therefore,

is to provide method and means for formingthe heel end of a shoe, in which theoperations are so performed that the extension willconform to the concavity of the heel seat k Anotherobject is to provide method and means 7 whereby a" shoulder is formed on the sole'along the breast, line and against which the breast porti'on of theheel maysnuglyj t. "Further objects will appear from the detail de s'cription taken in connection with the accom'-- panying drawings and in which will be illustrated embodiments of this invention. It will, however, be understood that this invention is susceptible of various embodiments within the scope of the appended claims. w In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective view of a shoe with its attached solej' Figure 21s a bottom view of theheel-end of the shoe, illustrating the marginal reduction at the heel seat, adapted more particularly for a socalled Cuban heel;

Figure 3 is a similar view showing the formation of the sole extension and the shoulder along the the formation of the heel end of a sole adapted to receive a Louis heel;

Figure 7 is a view similar to Figure 5, showing 2. Louis heel in place;

Figure 8 is a perspective view showing cutting mechanism for marginally reducing the heel seat;

Figure 9 is a side elevation showing mechanism for forming the heel seat and the shoulder along the breast line;

. Figure 10is a bottom view of a die as employed in. the mechanism of Figure 9;

Figure 11 is a sectional view, showing the op eration of this die; the section being taken along theshoe; t

Figure 12 is a section on the line 12,-42 of Figure 11; and

Figure 13 is an enlarged detail of Figure 12.

(generally stated, in accordance with this invention, the heel end of the sole is preferably but not necessarily reduced marginally. This may be accomplished by hand orby mechanism of the general character disclosed in said application and also shown in Figure 8. The shoe is then I placed. in suitable mechanism whereby the formation of the heel end of the sole is completed. is preferably'accomplished by a suitable die, whose formation corresponds to that desired.

This die will serve to not. only conform the sole extension. tothe concavity of the heel, but also to pressdown the turned over edges of the upper wounding theextension. The die also operates to form a definite shoulder along the-breast line across the entire-sole and against whichthe breast portion of the heel may abut. In accordance with this, invention, the operations are accomplished by combined action of pressure and heat; the heat being applied during the pressing operation, performed by the die. This serves not only toyconform the sole extension to the concavity of the heel seat, but. also to give the same a permanent set. Furthermore, the turned in edges of the upper are also given a pressing, as well as an ironing, operation: under the combined action of pressure and heat, so as'toprovide a firm and accurately formed seat along the margin of the heel and outside of. the extensionon which the heelwill have a snug fit. The manner of accomplishing these, operations will be hereafter more particularly described. V 7

Referring now to theaccompanying drawings, 1 designates the upper of a shoe which is mounted onla suitable last 2; and provided with asole 3, having the usual extension 4, while the turned over edges of the upper at the heel seat areshown lat-5;, In order to locate the breast line, the heel is. positioned on the shoe and the breast line marked, as shown by the line 6. The heel end of the. sole is now subjected to-the action of the die,

' ashereinafter described, in order to reduce the same. marginally andparticularly to form shoulders 7 at the breast line.

The operation of marginally reducing the sole maybe performed by mechanism shown in Figure 8, and more particularly described in the application referred to. It comprises a pair of cutters 8 adapted to enter the crease between the sole and the upper adjacent and back of the a base 12; the post 11 being guided on the base by a suitable guide 13 for movement towards and from the post 10, and this movement being secured by a suitable lever 14. Each of the cutters 8 is secured directly to its post; however, the cutter 9 is mounted on a block 15 guided for vertical movement on the post and normally held in raised position by springs 16. In practice, the mechanism shown in Figure 8 is mounted on a suitable press, the rain of which engages blocks 15, so as to depress the cutters 9 to cooperate with the cutters 8.

The mechanism described and shown in Figure 8 is fully described in the application referred to. In order to perform the operation of marginally reducing the sole, the shoe is placed with the cutters 8 within the crease and with the breast line, previously marked, located by the forward edges of these cutters. These cutters in the particular embodiment shown in Figure 8 are shaped to form a curved breast line of the character shown in Figure 4, although it is obvious they may be conformed to a breast line as shown in Figure 3. After the shoe has been positioned and the post 11 moved inwardly, so that the cutters 8 will be well within the crease, and, in fact, arrested by the lines of stitching securing the sole to the upper, the cutters 9 are caused to move down to cooperate with the cutters 8, in order to out through the sole edges and marginally reduce the sole, as well as to form the shoulder 7-.

The next operation is one to conform the sole extension 4 to the concavity of the heel seat, as well as to form a shoulder 17 along the breast line. For this purpose a die 18 isprovided. This die has a recessed portion 19 conforming to the extension 4, but curved transversely and longitudinally, as shown in Figures. 10, 11 and 12, in order to conform to the concavity of the heel seat. Surrounding the recess 19 is a recess having side portions 20 and a back portion 21.. These portions are so shaped as toengage the turned over edges of the upper surrounding the marginal extension, in order to shape and pressthe latter. Outside of the recesses 20-2l is a flat face 50, and the recess 2021 merges into that face.

by any suitable mechanism, such as a toggle and an eccentric 26 on a shaft 2'7, provided with a suitable clutch (not shown). This clutch may be of the typ'e well-known in the prior art, in

which upon manipulation of a treadle 39,.the.

toggle will be straightened and then come to rest, while upon the succeeding manipulation, the

toggle will become broken and again come to rest.

A suitable support for the last is shown at 28. This support is mounted for vertical movement in the bed 29 of the frame and rests upona spring 30, compressed between the support and This ram is an abutment 31 in the frame. :A stem 32,. attached to the support 28, passes through the abutment and is provided with a hand nut 33, arranged to engage a stop 34 on theabutment. Suitable'heatingmeans is provided for imparting heat to the diet This heating means may be of any desired form; the purpose being to main tain the die at the desired temperature. In the embodiment shown,'the ram 23, which receives the die, or the die itself, may .beprovided with an electrical heating element 35, controlled by aswitch 36.

After the sole end of the shoe has been marginally. reduced, for instance, by the mechanism shown in Figurea, and previously described,-it is subjected to the action of the die, Figures 942. For this purpose the last is placed on the sup-, port 28 and the shoe adjusted with the extension 4 within the recess 19 and with the breast line Heat having been previously applied to bring the die to the desired temperature, the

' signed for a Louis" heel.

clutch is now shifted so as to'cause straightening of the toggle 25. This will forcethe die against the heel seat, so as toplacethe same underv the combined'actionof pressure and heat. This pressure and heat will not only serve to shapethe extension 4, giving it the desired concavity,'as shown in Figure 12, but the forward edge of the die will sink into the sole so as to form along the breast line a definite depression, in order to provide 'a definite shoulder 17 at the breast-line and as a continuation ofthe shoulder 7. Moreover, the flat face 5 0.will serve to shapethe turned over edge of the upper, in order to provide a seat, while the portions 20 and '21 will take care of the otherwise wrinkled edges of the upper. Since the shaping of the seat margin is secured by the flat face 50, asingle die can'be used for shoes and heelsof quite a number;0f sizes and widths.

'As theheel seat is left under the combined action of pressure and heat for some time, not only will such shaping be secured, but a' permanent set will also be imparted to the sole and the turned over edges of the upper, in order to provide the desired seat for the heel. After the operation has been completed to the desired extent, the clutch is againshifted so as to break the toggle and the shoe can be removed. It will be noted that the shoe is subjected to'the action of the diewhile under a yielding pressure determined by-the spring 30, whose tension can be predetermined. The adjustment of the hand wheel or; nut 33, determines'the upper position of the support, so as to adapt the machine, Figure 9, to shoes "of different sizes, as well as to determine to an extent the tension of the spring.

. After the heel seathas been completed in the manner described, the heel 40. is placed thereon and secured in any suitable manner, as by a screw and glue'or other suitable fasteningmeans. .The heel can be readily located; but not only does shoulder '7 secure such location, butthe shoulder 1'7 definitely determines the breast line against which the breast portion of the heel may abut.

Figures 6 and ,7 show the'application of this invention to theformation, of the heel seat de-' In this case the mar-' ginal extension 4 is extended; however, theoperations are substantially the same as previously described To'this heel seat'can be applied a Louis" heel 41, and here again, the shoulder 1'7 serves to'deflnitely locate the forward extension42 of the heelgwhile the flap 43 can be I cemented; against the breast in the usual manner.

It will thereforebe seen that in accordance reception of the margin of a heel. This pressure is particularly heavy and localized for the reason that the part 50 of the die face (Figs. 10, ll, 12, and 13) is relieved to form'a recess 2021. This band or rim is generally indicatedin Figure 10 as that part extending between the construction line 51 and the line 52. Inside of the line 52, the slightly hollowedout zone 20--2l operates on the inside plaited margin of the turnedrover up per to press down and flatten the plaits; accordingly, there will be generally applied a heavy localized pressure along that narrow band so as to provide a shaped seat for th rim of the heel, which in a wooden heel is rather narrow, even when the leather covering is turned in, as even in such a case there is provided a narrow marginal rim. Where an outsole has a part overlying the heel seat and where that part is marginally reduced, 2. heavy forming pressure will be applied to that pai't'so as to convex the. same and particularly to operate on the margin of that part, as shown in Figures 11 and 12. The forward part of the die sinks into the sole part along the breast line so as to provide a distinct shoulder 17 extending along the breast line and in line with the shoulders 7 (Figures 3, 4 and 6) in order to provide a shoulder or abutment for the breast of the heel. The pressureto which the heel seat is subjected is a heavy forming pressure as distinguished from simply an ironing contact, and the extent of this pressure will, of course, depend upon the size of the shoe, and the material beingcperated upon. Where theshoe' is of the character as previously described, it has been found that a total pressure applied to the die of about twelve hundred (1200) pounds secures satisfactory operation. The'heat applied isa high heatfas distinguished from simply a light sea-ring heat, and the temperature must be sufiicient to secure, inconnection with a high forming pressure, a setting or" the material under the combined action" of pressure and heat.

While, again, the temperature may vary somewhat in accordance with the material being op- I erated upon, in the case of a shoe of the character previously described, a temperature at the. heel seat of about 300 F. has been found to be satisfactory.

It will thus be seen that the invention accomplishes its objects. Means is provided whereby the heel seat may be accurately formed to conform to the heel. Not only is the reduced exten sion shaped to conform to the concavity, butthe turned in margins of the upper are shaped to conform to the margins of the heel at theheel seat. Where such a heel is covered with leather,

as is usually thecase, this leather will extend underneath the heel seat, and as it is accurately formed in its manufacture, and since the margin of the heel seat on the shoe has been accurately formed and shaped, there will be a snug joint between the heel and the shoe aroundthe Bil -Louis heel is employed, the shoulder will be of advantage, for the depression will take care of the substantial thickness of the extension 42 at its tip, so that there will be a smooth continuation of the flap 43 as it passes over the sole to the extension and the breast.

While this invention is particularly applicable to shoes having the general types of heels shown and described, it will be understood that this invention is applicable in many cases to other forms and types of heels. It is further applicable to shoes having soles and bottoms of different types and attached by various means, whether by stitching, cement or even by metallic fasteners. It will furthermore be understood that certain features, operations and sub-combinations are of utility and may be employed without reference to other features, operations and sub-combinations; that is contemplated by and is within the scope of the appended claims. It is moreover obvious that various changes may be made in the details of operations and constructions within the scope of the appended claims, withoutdeparting from the spirit of this invention; it is to be understood, therefore, that this invention is not to be limited to the specific details shown and/or described.

Having thus described the invention what is claimed is:

1. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe having a turned-over upper, comprising, applying a localized heavy forming pressure and high heat to a narrow band on the outside margin of the upper Where it turns over, to an extent shoe having a turned-over upper, comprising, ap-

plying a forming pressure and heat to the turnedover upper to an extent and at a temperature sufficient to form and set the turned-over upper, there being applied a direct heavy localized form 51 ing pressure and high heat to a narrow band on the outside margin upper where it turns over to provide a narrow solid seat for the margin of the heel, the inside plaited margin of the upper being pressed down to flatten the plaits for the reception of the heel part inside of that margin.

3. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe havinga turned-over upper and having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, applying a heavy forming pressure and high heat to the turned-over upper and directly to the sole part to an extent and at a temperature suflicient to form and set the turned-over upper and sole part for the reception of a heel.

4. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe having an upper turned-over an insole at the heel and having a sole part overlying the heel seat and part of the turned-over upper, comprising, applying a. heavy forming pressure and high heat to the outside margin of the turnedover upper adjacent the overlying sole part to an extent and at a temperature sufficient to form and set a narrow band on the outside margin of upper where it turns over to form a seat for the reception of the margin of a heel.

5. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe, having a turned-"over upper and havinga sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, applying a heavy forming pressure and high heat directly to the sole part, to a narrow band on the outside margin of the overlying upper and to the inside plaited margin of the over-turned upper,

to an extent and at a temperature sufficient. to

form and set the materials for the reception 01 2. heel.

6. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe having a turned-over upper and having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, applying a heavy forming pressure and high heat directly to the sole part at the breast line to an extent and at a temperature sufiicient toset the material and form a shoulder at the breast line for the reception of a heel.

'7. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe having a turned-over upper and having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, ap plying a heavy forming pressure and high heat directly to the sole part at and back of the breast line to an extent and at a temperature sufficient to set the material and form a shoulder at the breast line for the reception of a heel.

8. An apparatus for forming the heel seat of a shoe having a turned-over upper, comprising, a forming die having a'rim adapted to engage the outside margin of the turned+over upper along a narrow band, means for applying high heat to said die, and means for applyinghigh pressure to said die and localized at its rim while at a high temperature suflicient so as to form and set a narrow band on the upper whereit turns over for the receptionof a heel.

9. An apparatus for forming the heel seat of a shoe having a turned-over upper, comprising,"

a forming die-havinga rim adaptedto engage the outside margin of the turned-over upper along a narrow band andhaving an inside part to engage the inside plaited margin of the upper, means for applying high heat to said die, and means for applying high pressure to said die and localized at its rim while at a hightemperature sufficient so as to form and set a narrow band on the upper where it turns over and to press down and flatten the plaits for the reception of a heel. 5

10. An apparatus for forming the heel end of a shoe having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, a forming die having a part adapted to engage thesole part; means for applying high heat. to said die, and means for applying such high pressure to said die while at a high temperature sufficient so as to form and set the sole part for the reception of a heel.

11. An apparatus for forming the heel end of a shoe having a sole part overlying the'heel seat,

comprising, a forming die having a part adapted to engage and sink into the heel part at the breast line, means for applying high heat to said die,

and means for applying such a high pressure to said die while at a high temperature suflicientso as to form and set a shoulder at the breast line for the reception of a heel.

12. An apparatus for forming the heel end 01 a shoe having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, a forming die having a part adapted to engage and sink into the sole part at the breast line and engage the sole part back of the breast line, means for applying high heat to said die, and means for applying such a-high pressure to said die while at a high temperature sufiicient so as to form and set the sole .part with.

reception ofa heel.

sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, a

forming die having an inside part adapted to engage the sole part and having a rim part adapted to engage the turned-over upper, means for applying high heat to said die, and means for applying such high pressure to saiddie while at a high temperature suflicient so as to form and set the turned-over upper and the sole part, for the gage thesole'part, having a middle part adapted to engage the inside plaited margin of the turnedover upper and having a rim part adapted to engage the outside margin of the turned-over upper along a narrow band, means for applying high heat to said die, and means for applying such high pressure to said die while at a high temperature sufiicient so as to form and set the turned-over upper andthe sole part for the reception of a heel.

15. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe having a. sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, marginally reducing the sole part at the heel seat, and applying a heavyforming pressureand highheat directlyto the marginally reduced sole part to an extent and at a high temperature suflicient to set the material to a conformation suitable for the reception of a heel.

16. The process of formingthe heel seat of a shoe having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, marginally reducing the sole part at the heel seat back of the breast line,and applying end of a shoe having a sole part overlying the heel seat,

the heel seat and along the breast line to form shoulders at the ends of the breast line, and

applying a heavy forming pressure and high heat directly to the sole part at the breast line to an extent and at a temperature sufiicient to set the material and form a shoulder on the sole'part in line with said shoulders for the reception of a heel. p

18. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe having a turned-over upper and having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, marginally. reducing the sole part at the heel seat, and applying a heavy forming pressure and high heat to a narrow band on the outside margin of the turned-over upper adjacent the overlying sole part, to an extent and at a temperature sufficient to form, and set the upper along that narrow band to form a seat for the reception of a heel.

19. The process of forming the heel seat of a shoe having a turned-over upper and having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, marginally reducing the sole part at the heel seat, and applying a heavy forming pressure and high heat to a narrow band on the outside margin of the upper where it turns over and to the inside plaited margin of the over-turned upper, to an extent and at a temperature sufficient to form and set the upper along that narrow band and to press down and flatten the plaits for the reception of a heel.

shoe. having a turned-over upper and having a sole part overlying the heel seat, comprising, marginally reducing the sole part at the heel seat, and. applying a heavy forming pressure and high heat to the margin of the over-turned upper and directly to the sole part to an extent and at a temperature sufiicient to form and set the materials for the reception of a heel.

ARTHUR J. BRAUER. FREDERICK P. WAGNER.

comprising, marginally reducing the sole part at 20. The process of forming the heel seat of a I 

